Brakes

Brakes for your motorcycle

The brake system is the only thing on a motorcycle that turns speed into standstill, and it consists of pads, discs, calipers, lines and fluid that all have to work together. Here you'll find parts for the entire system – from individual Brake Pads to complete Hydraulic Lines kits.

A brake works by pressing friction material against a rotating disc, turning kinetic energy into heat. Anything that improves heat dissipation, pressure and feel at the lever makes the brake better.

The choice matters more than many think. The same motorcycle can feel completely different with a different pad compound, a stiff braided line or a disc that is no longer warped from heat.

This guide covers dimensions and markings, the difference between organic and sintered compounds, how to choose based on your riding, when parts are worn out, and how to fit and bleed correctly.

The range includes Brembo, EBC, SBS, Galfer, Moto-Master, TRW, DP Brakes, Goodridge, Magnum Shielding, Drag Specialties, Zodiac, MCS, LA Choppers, Moose Offroad and Barnett Clutches & Cables.

Use Find your bike at the top of Partsdenmark.com to see only parts that fit your year and model – and there's free shipping on orders over €200.

Dimensions, markings and layout you need to know

Most wrong purchases happen because people look at the model name instead of the dimensions. The disc diameter, bolt pattern and thickness plus the pad shape decide whether the part fits – not the name of the motorcycle alone.

Discs and their dimensions

A Brake Rotor is defined by outer diameter, the number and position of the bolt holes, the centre bore diameter and the thickness. The minimum thickness is normally stamped into the disc as "MIN TH".

• Diameter: typically 220–320 mm on street bikes
• Thickness: often 4.0–6.0 mm when new, with the wear limit stamped into the disc
• Runout: a warped disc shows up as a pulsing lever long before you can see it
• ABS ring: must be intact if the motorcycle has ABS
• Type: solid Disc or floating Rotor with rivets between the braking track and carrier

Floating discs are allowed a little play in the rivets – that's by design and lets the braking track expand with heat without warping.

Pads, calipers and hydraulics

Brake Pads follow a shape number tied to the caliper, not to the motorcycle. Change the caliper and the pad shape changes with it.

• Friction thickness: replace at the latest when around 1 mm is left on the backing plate
• Caliper type: fixed caliper with opposed pistons or floating caliper
• Lines: rubber or Stainless Steel with braided outer
• Brake fluid: DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 can be mixed, silicone-based DOT 5 cannot
• Cables: Cable, Idle Cable and Throttle in the same length family as the handlebar

Clutch and throttle are part of the job when you change bar height, because Hydraulic Lines and cables need the same extra length as the brake line.

Choose brakes to suit your riding

The right combination depends on how hot the brake gets and how much feel you want. The table shows the typical combinations and which brands in the range cover them.

Find the row that most resembles your riding, then read the sections below the table.

Riding style	Type	Advantages	Disadvantages	Brands in the range
Commuting and back roads	Organic or semi-metallic Pads	Soft initial bite, low noise, easy on the disc	Loses bite at high temperatures	EBC, TRW, SBS
Touring with luggage	Sintered Brake Pads and steel Brake Line	Consistent bite hot and wet, short lever travel	More disc wear over time	SBS, Galfer, Goodridge
Sport and track days	Sintered Pads with floating Brake Rotor	High temperature capacity, precise modulation	Considerably more expensive, faster disc wear	Brembo, Galfer, Moto-Master
Offroad and enduro	Sintered Pads with drilled Disc	Self-cleaning in mud and water	Short service life in sand and gravel	Moose Offroad, Moto-Master, DP Brakes
Custom and cruiser	Stainless Rotor with Stainless Steel Hydraulic Lines	Lengths for Ape Hangers, consistent finish	Requires Extended lines and cables	Drag Specialties, Magnum Shielding, LA Choppers, Zodiac, MCS

If you mostly ride in town and on back roads, the pads are the cheapest place to start. Going from worn OE pads to fresh Pads from EBC, SBS or TRW usually gives more improvement than any other single part.

If the brake has to cope with repeated hard stops, heat is what you're fighting. Here sintered compounds help, along with a well-ventilated disc and a braided steel line that doesn't expand when the fluid gets hot.

Materials and variants explained

The friction material determines how the brake feels, how much it bites cold, and how quickly the disc wears. The three main types cover pretty much every need.

Organic and semi-metallic compounds

Organic pads are built from fibres and resin with a low metal content. They bite softly, make little noise and are kind to the disc, which makes them good for everyday riding and for older motorcycles with thin discs.

On the other hand, friction drops as temperature rises, and they wear faster in rain and dirt than sintered types.

Sintered compounds

Sintered Brake Pads are pressed from metal powder under high heat and pressure. They work consistently across a wide temperature range, bite well from the first pull and handle water and mud considerably better.

The price is faster disc wear and a bit more mechanical noise. On motorcycles with a thin or already worn disc you should consider an organic pad instead.

Discs, lines and cables

Discs come as a solid Disc in one piece of steel and as a floating Rotor with an aluminium carrier and riveted connection. The floating type handles heat better and typically weighs less.

Braided steel lines from Goodridge, Magnum Shielding or Zodiac barely expand under pressure, which gives a firmer lever. The same suppliers offer Cable, Idle Cable and Throttle in Extended lengths for tall bars.

Wear, service life and maintenance

Brake parts wear all the time, but the signs are clear if you look for them. Check pads, discs and fluid at least at every oil change.

Pads

Replace when the friction material approaches 1 mm above the backing plate, or when the wear groove in the pad has disappeared. Many sets have a wear groove that acts as a visible limit.

A scraping noise of metal on metal means the backing plate is touching the disc. In that case always check the disc for deep grooves before fitting new pads.

Pads wear unevenly if the caliper slide pins or pistons are sticking. Uneven wear from side to side is a warning that the caliper needs cleaning.

Discs

Measure the thickness with a vernier caliper at several points on the braking track and compare with the stamped minimum value. If the disc is below the limit, it can no longer absorb the heat and must be replaced.

A pulsing lever when braking from speed points to runout or uneven thickness. On floating discs the rivets should also be checked for play beyond what is intended.

Fluid and lines

Brake fluid absorbs moisture and should be changed roughly every two years, regardless of mileage. Dark fluid in the reservoir is a sure sign that you're overdue.

Rubber lines go soft and brittle over the years. Cracks at the fittings, moisture around the banjo bolts or a lever that feels spongy despite fresh fluid all mean new Brake Line kits.

Fitting, bedding in and bleeding

Always change pads in pairs and on both front calipers, so the brake pulls evenly. Mixed materials from side to side give unpredictable braking.

Clean the caliper, push the pistons carefully back, and keep an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir while you do it. Grease the slide pins and pad pin with a brake-rated grease – never on the friction surface.

Torque the caliper bolts and banjo bolts to the workshop manual values with a torque wrench, and always use new copper washers at every banjo joint. Too tight and you strip the thread, too loose and the joint leaks.

Bleed the system from the bottom up until no more bubbles appear, then pump the lever hard a few times. If the lever still feels soft, there's air in the master cylinder or in a bend in the line.

Bed in new pads with 20–30 moderate stops from low speed, without letting the brake get red hot. Only then has the compound laid an even film on the disc and delivers its full performance.

Frequently asked questions about brakes

Here are the questions our customers ask most often when sorting out the brake system.

Can I switch from organic to sintered pads?

Yes, if the disc is within spec and rated for it. Check the disc thickness first, as sintered pads wear faster on a disc that is already close to the limit.

Expect shorter lever travel and a harder bite. Ride a few hundred kilometres gently before you judge the feel.

Do the discs have to be changed at the same time as the pads?

Not necessarily. The discs only need replacing when the thickness is below minimum, when there are deep grooves, or when they have runout.

If the disc is completely worn out, however, new pads won't last long and the brake will never feel even. See the range of brake discs for your model.

Do braided steel lines really make a difference?

Yes, especially on older motorcycles with original rubber lines. Steel lines from Goodridge, Magnum Shielding or Zodiac barely expand, so the pressure goes into the pads instead of into the line.

Which brake fluid should I use?

Use the type stated on the master cylinder cap. DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 can be mixed with each other, while DOT 5 is silicone-based and must never be mixed with the others.

Always open a fresh bottle when changing fluid, as brake fluid draws moisture from the air as soon as the seal is broken.

Why is the brake dragging after a pad change?

Usually because a piston or a slide pin is sticking from dirt and corrosion. Clean the caliper thoroughly and check that the pistons move freely.

If that doesn't help, the seals are tired. Then it's time for a service kit or a new brake caliper.

If you only need the friction parts, you'll find the full range of brake pads and brake shoes, and if the system needs a full overhaul, you can combine them with new discs in the same order.

All brake parts on Partsdenmark.com are covered by 2-year right of complaint, and we offer a European price match if you find the same item cheaper at a European dealer. Use Find your bike to make sure the pad shape, disc dimensions and line lengths fit your particular motorcycle.